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Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Food Critic

Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Food Critic
By Ruth Reichl

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"Garlic and Sapphires" is Ruth Reichl's riotous account of the many disguises she employs to dine undetected when she takes on the much coveted and highly prestigious job of "New York Times" restaurant critic. Reichl knows that to be a good critic she has to be anonymous - but her picture is posted in every four-star, low-star kitchen in town and so she embarks on an extraordinary - and hilarious - undercover game of disguise - keeping even her husband and son in the dark. There is her stint as Molly, a frumpy blonde in an off-beige Armani suit that Ruth takes on when reviewing Le Cirque resulting in a double review of the restaurant: first she ate there as Molly; and then as she was coddled and pampered on her visit there as Ruth, "New York Times" food critic. Then, there is the eccentric, mysterious red head on whom her husband - both disconcertingly and reassuringly - develops a terrible crush. She becomes Brenda the earth mother, Chloe the seductress and even Miriam her own (deceased) mother. What is even more remarkable about Reichl's spy games is that as she takes on these various guises, she finds herself changed not just physically, but also in character revealing how one's outer appearance can very much influence one's inner character, expectations, and appetites.


Product Details

  • Amazon Sales Rank: #18788 in Books
  • Published on: 2007-03-01
  • Original language: English
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 352 pages

Editorial Reviews

From the Publisher
In the bestselling tradition of Nigel Slater and Anthony Bourdain, comes the sumptuous and riotous account of undercover food critic Ruth Reichl

From the Inside Flap
Garlic and Sapphires is Ruth Reichl's delicious and compulsively readable account of her time spent as an undercover restaurant critic.
Reichl knows that to be a good critic you have to be anonymous, but when she lands the much coveted and highly prestigious job of the New York Times restaurant critic, her picture is posted in every four-star, low-star and no-star kitchen in town. And so, in an attempt to avoid the inevitable red carpet treatment, she embarks on her adventures in deception.

First there is her stint as Molly, a frumpy blonde in an off-beige suit. At Molly's first meal at Le Cirque, she is duly ignored, mishandled and condescended to by the sniffy staff. Then, when restraunteurs get wise to Molly, Reichl transforms herself into the eccentric, mysterious red head on whom her husband - both disconcertingly and reassuringly - develops a terrible crush. Then, she becomes Brenda the earth mother, Chloe the seductress and even Miriam her own (deceased) mother.
But what is remarkable about Reichl's spy games is that as she takes on these various guises, she finds herself changed not just physically, but also inwardly and discovers how one's outer appearance can profoundly influence one's inner character, expectations, and appetites. 'Every restaurant is a theatre, even the modest restaurants offer the opportunity to become someone else, at least for a little while.'

From the Back Cover
Garlic and Sapphires is Ruth Reichl's delicious and mischevious account of her time spent as an undercover restaurant critic.

Reichl knows that to be a good critic you have to be anonymous. When she lands the much coveted job of the New York Times restaurant critic, she resorts to disguise in order to avoid the inevitable red carpet treatment.

But what is remarkable about Reichl's spy games is that as the takes on these various guises, (frumpy, blonde Molly; bohemian, red-headed Brenda...), she finds herself changed beyond her physical appearance. Ruth discovers how one's outer appearance can profoundly influence one's inner character, expectations - and appetites.

'With a sprig of chervil in her hair, anyone would want to eat up the wonderful Ruth Reichl whole and on the bone. Food is love.' The Times
'A pleasure from start to finish' the Guardian
'Joyous, witty and totally absorbing' Good Housekeeping
'Deliciousness on every page' Jay Rayner, the Observer
'Riotously, effortlessly entertaining - Ruth Reichl is fair-minded, brave and a wonderful writer' New York Times


Customer Reviews

Deliciously Delightful5
. Eliot, "Four Quartets", "Garlic and sapphires in the mud". 'You love to eat, you love to write, you love the generosity of the cooks, and what happens around a table when a great meal is served.' This is the Ruth Reichl we know and love as the editor of "Gourmet" magazine. She has written two books about her life as woman and chef, and this third book is about her life as the Restaurant Critic for The New York Times. This is a great book, humorous, down- right laughing out loud funny, serious, and sensitive and a story about Ruth and her life and family in the city she was born in and loves, New York City.

Ruth was the restaurant critic at the Los Angeles Times and was very happy. Or, she thought she was. She had reviewed every great restaurant and received the laurels she deserved for her expertise. Strangely, she received a phone call asking her if she would
be interested in talking with the editor at the new York Times about a job. She agreed to come and talk and the next thing she knew she was being interviewed by everyone and anyone that had any holding at the NYT. She was off putting, not sure she wanted the job, and, of course, they wanted her and, of course, she wanted the job.

New York is a strange city. The chefs and owners of the grand restaurants placed her picture in their kitchens so that if she came to them, she would be recognized. So, Ruth had to take matters into her own hands. She started to wear disguises while eating at the restaurant she was reviewing, and she fooled them, fooled them all. She would visit a restaurant at least 3-5 times before writing a review. Her reviews are masterpieces. She can make or break a restaurant. She discovered that if the restaurants knew she was there, she was treated like a queen, and the everyday couple next to her, revived a different meal than she did. After all, Ruth was there to review for the masses not the well known New Yorker. Ruth was able to complete her job with her disguises and such funny experiences she had. Her trips to the wig shop and the second hand clothing shops are hilarious. Her son, wanted to know abbot every disguise and he readers were enthralled with her reviews. Ruth visited every neighborhood in New York, She met the great and the man next door She was happy to just be around the thing she loves the most, next to his family, food. Ruth developed strange alliances and wonderful friends. This sis more like a chat with your best friend, and the recipes. Ruth gives us her amazing recipes. I must try them all. There does not appear to be one better than the other. After 5 years, Ruth

After five years, Ruth became tired of the critic life and was looking for something new. What, she was not sure. However, a phone call came at the right time. Best book in a long time- Admirably recommended.. prisrob

Delicious!5
When Ruth Reichl arrives in New York from Los Angeles, the restaurants are expecting her! She is told by a woman on the plane that there is a photo of her by the till in every restaurant she is likely to review. A plan is needed! So Reichl develops a series of disguises so that she can eat incognito.
(She then eats at the same restaurant with no disguise and notes the different way she is treated!)
I loved every minute I spent reading this book. Reichl obviously adores food and this is really apparent. She writes about food in a way that is totally lacking in pomposity (other food critics could take a note from her book.)
The book explores not only a series of gorgeous meals, and a few not so gorgeous ones! But also the whole experience of eating in wonderful restaurants, and the differnce disguises and company make to the experience.
Cannot recommend this highly enough.....delicious!

Delicious!5
When Ruth Reichl arrives in New York from Los Angeles, the restaurants are expecting her! She is told by a woman on the plane that there is a photo of her by the till in every restaurant she is likely to review. A plan is needed! So Reichl develops a series of disguises so that she can eat incognito.
(She then eats at the same restaurant with no disguise and notes the different way she is treated!)
I loved every minute I spent reading this book. Reichl obviously adores food and this is really apparent. She writes about food in a way that is totally lacking in pomposity (other food critics could take a note from her book.)
The book explores not only a series of gorgeous meals, and a few not so gorgeous ones! But also the whole experience of eating in wonderful restaurants, and the differnce disguises and company make to the experience.
Cannot recommend this highly enough.....delicious!