The first and still one of the best dedicated training for climbing books. Totally inspiring and easy to use. Still an excellent choice even today.

---

Product Description

A handbook for experienced climbers covering all the physical and psychological aspects of climbing.

---

Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #341634 in Books
• Published on: 1993-12-01
• Original language: English
• Number of items: 1
• Dimensions: .0" h x .0" w x .0" l, 1.00 pounds
• Binding: Paperback
• 208 pages

---

Customer Reviews

Very technical guide to improving your climbing abilities
A toolbox of techniques, tactics, and strategies to improve your climbing skills. The authors cover a gamut of subjects aimed at both physical and mental conditioning for climbing. Some of their writing is a bit scientific (sounding more like a college textbook at times), but they offset this with amusing anecdotes and cartoons. Lots of great 'beta' on technique as well as being a essential training guide for all areas and levels of rock sport.

An interesting, though wholly incomplete overview
Performance Rock Climbing was clearly written by Udo Neumann, in an attempt to capitalize on Goddard's brief success on the North American climbing scene. The training methods suggested in this book are the most efficient available, yet are not developped to their fullest possible extent. In brief, this book serves as an introduction to anyone wanting to improve.

The problem with training for climbing in North America is twofold. 1. North Americans would rather take a pill to get better than invest a lot of time into something. As proof, look at adds that offer the shortest possible delay before wieght loss, or muscle building. All products, including this book, are aimed at a limited growth over a short period of time. 2. Climbing in North America still invokes feelings of freedom and rebellion. Training for climbing is not about seeing nature, or being "out there." It is about discipline, and sacrifice. It is work.

Performance Rock climbing is a blatant attempt to integrate years of European training methodolgy with the American ideology. As such, it fails in its mission. It does not instruct enough on the uses and benefits of periodization nor cycles. It "dumbs down" the physiological aspects for a less receptive American audience, while using language that attempts to make it appear "scientific." Anyone capable of understanding the language used will quickly see through its double message.

If you are interested in serious training, there are many options available to you. Have you ever wondered why the French dominate the climbing arena? Maybe, if you care, look into some of their publications.

More in-depth book than any in its kind I've seen
I don't agree with the guys who refer the book as incomplete overview or lobsided to sport climbing only.
All mental, biological and physical approaches are mentioned and discussed there. You can apply a lot of the principles to many aspects of your climbing. I've never come across any training books in english that cover so much in depth of the fundamentals.
I live in Euorpe and I don't see any effort of the authors trying to amalgamate the European and American methodolgies. The authors simple apply their scientific knowledge and findings into their sport. That's nothing wrong with that.
You have to find me a french publication that betters this one to convince me otherwise.