Surf Is Where You Find It
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Average customer review:Product Details
- Amazon Sales Rank: #386168 in Books
- Published on: 2008-04
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Binding: Hardcover
- 246 pages
Customer Reviews
Gerry Lopez rule of surfing #6 read this book
Would this book be as readable if it wasn't written by one of the most stylish surfers ever to slide across the face of a wave? Possibly not but it was and as a result ever word is given extra resonance by the man who wrote it.
Occasionally it can be a bit repetetive, how many time do you have to survive a cleanup set in Hawaii before you no longer say to yourself, "this is it Gerry, I'm going to die" and say well I've survived them before, I just might make it through this one aswell. The cod Eastern philosophy can be a bit cheesy too. But mainly I loved this book for the matey humour and the relaxed view of life that it portrays.



