Product Description

Remarkable Hotels of Europe contains a collection of in-depth reports on hotels recognised by their prominent position at the forefront of the European hospitality industry. Although edited as a guide—with all strategic travel details and some photographs included—the ambition of this book is above all to introduce a more individual and comprehensive style of describing the finest of hotels compared to those typical of today’s travel guides. Aspiring connoisseurs will find investigative but passionately angled reviews focusing on history, architecture, atmosphere, service, clientele, interiors, setting, food, wine and more. Most likely, this pertinent documentation of each establishment’s uniqueness will make these travellers eager to plan journeys or detours in order to experience for themselves. Finally, even sophisticated globetrotters, used to the choicest of accommodations, may enjoy a new rendezvous while reading appropriate stories and up-to-date information on such favourites as Paris Ritz, London’s Dorchester and Brenner’s in Baden-Baden.

Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #3677927 in Books
• Published on: 2002-01-28
• Original language: English
• Number of items: 1
• Binding: Paperback
• 120 pages

About the Author
After graduating from the University of Oslo with a degree in law, Thomas Prebensen Steen started in the 1980s his career within the world of book publishing. For two decades, he has independently visited, researched and collated information on select hotel destinations in Europe. Nowadays, he’s based in Oslo as a writer.

Excerpted from Remarkable Hotels of Europe by Thomas Prebensen Steen. Copyright © 2002. Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
PAPAL NEIGHBOURHOOD
Hostellerie Le Prieuré close to Avignon

Only the sweeping mistral and chirruping cicadas are audible as the tall, automatic iron gate at the end of the alley opens. Leaving the village of Villeneuve lez Avignon behind, we enter the praised sanctuary of Hostellerie Le Prieuré and slide our car into place between a yellow Ferrari and an aquamarine Porsche.

***

Amidst crowded parts of Provence, on the west bank of the Rhône, Villeneuve lez Avignon still resembles a hideaway. This small village had its great days in the 14th century when the cardinals built their palatial residences, known as Livrées, at this west end of Pont St-Bénézet. The Pope himself resided in neighbouring Avignon, right across the river at the other end of the bridge.

Today, while offering unique mediaeval constructions such as the Chartreuse du Val-de-Bénédiction, founded by Innocent VI, and the hilltop fortification of St-André, erected by Philip the Fair, Villeneuve is surprisingly unaffected by nearby hurly-burly.

***

From the secured car park—roofed by parasol pines—we stroll towards the reception under climbing roses formed into archways while thrilled by luxuriant gardens: at the far left, behind the twin tennis courts, herbs and roses; to the left, a formal garden walled by a wisteria-draped pergola and, to the right, the swimming pool, flanked by majestic cypresses, potted hibiscus and the vine covered Atrium wing of the hotel.

Another section of this more than a half century old hotel, originally built as Cardinal Arnaud de Via’s Livrée, became a Priory in 1333. The Priory’s chapel, next door to the hotel and with the cardinal’s tomb inside, is today used as the village church. The hotel business, however, consists of converted buildings from other eras too. Forming a tiny community by its own, the establishment is interconnected by idyllic paths, squares displaying flower filled urns and fragrant, secret gardens.

Fancy cars indeed, owner Marie-France Mille and her enthusiastic son Francois do not run a typical Provencal boutique hotel. Still no lack of luxury facilities, style and atmosphere are, above all, grand. Genuine, tastefully decorated surroundings matched by amiable and attentive service provide sophisticated comfort for a discriminating, low-key clientele.

In the garden, we caught sight of a young woman under the pergola, working on her laptop. She seemed so relaxed and satisfied, as if current working conditions were inspiration good enough for getting on with her project. And, lingering by the pool, a couple discussed the importance of visiting neighbouring sights. We interpreted their conclusion as, ‘‘not today, let’s rather enjoy more of this magnificent place before anything else’’.

Shaded by plane trees and laid with flagstones, the charming courtyard at the end of the rose covered entrance makes the centre of this inner ‘‘village’’—leading directly to the Avignonnais dining room, the calm reception, the salons and a small library. Pillared ceilings in the lofty public rooms expose their beautifully crafted beams. An arresting, coffered portal, framed by carved, gilded mouldings, opens into the main lounge. Placed on terracotta floors, classic Provencal furniture is mixed with antique pieces. Supplemented by imposing walk-in fireplaces, these traditional areas create a very warm and inviting ambience.

Just as well appointed, thirty-six rooms offer tranquillity befitting earlier, clerical duties. Romantic ‘‘cells’’ in the original buildings are balconied à la ‘‘Romeo & Juliet’’ or give onto small, private patios and terraces. Apartments in the more lavish setting of the modern Atrium wing overlook the pool of Olympic proportions while the region of Avignon is visible in the distance. Bathrooms are nice, some even with a separate shower. A select blend of items from the seventies and those well preserved antiques add a chic dimension.

***

Furnished most of the year as a restaurant, the courtyard reminds one of a distinguished pavement café: lazily seated in cane chairs upholstered in powder blue canvas, we taste star rated dishes lit by small table lamps while lulled by the hotel’s unhurried way of life.

Chef Serge Chenet presents a delicate, recognisable Provencal cuisine, flavoured with freshly cut herbs. We tried delicious scampi, pan fried ‘‘ready-to-eat’’, served in limed oil and seasoned with a choice of peppers; gently steamed salmon, richly garnished with a bold, creamed curry sauce and, finally, tender saddle of lamb de pays, tasted with thyme and roasted to an appealing rose.

Seductive by appearance and memorable by their delicacy, desserts included grapefruit roasted with lavender honey and a crunchy, triple chocolate confection arranged with red berries.

Highly considered, the wine cellar offers a good selection of Côte du Rôhne and, what delighted us, several sunny Côte de Provence. Meals and wine are impeccably delivered by a seemingly devoted staff.

***

Breakfasts are irresistible too. Filled with not only delicious, lukewarm croissants but also lots of white and brown bread, selected cheeses, assorted fruits, cereals, home-made preserves, as well as hot and cold drinks, the delicate buffet is placed in a shady corner of the courtyard. Not often at hotel breakfasts, there was, however, a bubbling vitality among the guests. Some of them happened to be performers at the ongoing festival in Avignon and, altogether, even this occasion became like a feast.

We were leaving Le Prieuré in a good mood. Certainly, such hospitality creates an inspiring impact on any sybaritic person. This might be the perfect base from which to explore western Provence.