Hungry City: How Food Shapes Our Lives
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Average customer review:Product Description
Cities cover just 2 per cent of the world's surface, but consume 75 per cent of the world's resources. Global food production increased by 145 per cent in the last 4 decades of the 20th century - yet an estimated 800 million people are still hungry. In 2005, British supermarkets sent half a million tonnes of edible food to landfill - the whole food sector put together sent 17 million tonnes. One quarter of the British population is obese - one in three meals we eat is a ready meal, why? The relationship between food and cities is fundamental to our every day lives. Food shapes cities, and through them, it moulds us - along with the countryside that feeds us. The gargantuan effort necessary to feed cities arguably has a greater social and physical impact on us and our planet than anything else we do. Yet few of us are conscious of the process and we rarely stop to wonder how food reaches our plates." Hungry City" examines the way in which modern food production has damaged the balance of human existence, and reveals that we have yet to resolve a centuries-old dilemma - one which holds the key to a host of current problems, from obesity, the inexorable rise of the supermarkets, to the destruction of the natural world. Carolyn Steel follows food on its journey - from the land (and sea) to market and supermarket, kitchen to table, waste-dump and back again - exploring the historical roots and the contemporary issues at each stage of food's cycle. She shows how our lives and our environment are being manipulated but explains how we can change things for the better. Original, inspiring and written with infectious enthusiasm and belief, "Hungry City" illuminates an issue that is fundamental to us all.
Product Details
- Amazon Sales Rank: #16408 in Books
- Published on: 2009-03-26
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Binding: Paperback
- 400 pages
Editorial Reviews
Review
`She can précis her specialist sources briskly, and her own direct research is lively'
--Guardian
Review
`lively, wide-ranging, endlessly inquisitive book'
Review
'A superb account of the uneasy relationship between the city and its means of sustenance'
Customer Reviews
Brilliant analysis of the risks inherent in the unrelenting growth of cities
Carolyn Steel has developed a well-exposed analysis of the inherent tension in the relationship between cities and their sources of, consumption of, and ultimately disposal of food products. The book draws towards a final conclusion that we are getting closer and closer to the breaking point in that tension as more people round the world continue their exodus to cities.
Throughout the book, she uses fascinating examples from our distant and not so distant history to illustrate the effects that she describes. The book is made rich by her examination of so many different aspects of the relationship between cities and food, from the role of government, to the architecture and structure of cities, to the role of cooking and the way that waste is treated.
Steel's analysis is an eye-opener, and has put into context for me the role of urban planning with regard to globalisation and sustainability.
It's not the despair - it's the hope...
Whatever its mercurial promise of bright lights, shared experiences and multicultural exoticism, the city can be an isolating place. However: everyone's got to eat - and therein lies the opportunity both for life-enhancing human engagement and for equally life-sapping process-led commercialism. Carolyn Steel's book, which interprets the city through food, highlights both the despair and the hope implicit in the idea of the city. By her clever tracing of food's journey from land to urban table and thence to sewer, Steel makes us reflect on past and present social satisfactions and injustices which our most basic human need can inspire.
Contrast the image of joyless contemporary supermarket shoppers - strip-lit lone prowlers debating forlornly with themselves about which highly packaged factory offering to microwave tonight - with the heady possibility of outdoor urban market-goers discussing food, tasting and learning. It's clear which one we'd all rather participate in, and yet Steel urges us not to be misty-eyed about the turn of the 21st century emerging market culture either. London's Borough Market is described as `food tourism' - laudable, but not affordable - a middle class aberration rather than a sustainable way of life for most of us. This typifies Steel's approach to her two-pronged subject: she is not afraid to slaughter sacred cows in her search for authenticity and meaning. This search takes her from London to the Middle East, from high flown ritual to domestic minutiae and from the mediaeval dining table to McDonalds without exhausting or overwhelming the reader.
As I read through Steel's journey, many similar food-inspired conflicts on the despair/hope axis spring to mind and make me feel at once revolutionary and impotent. Growing food locally could be such a positive collective activity, but the space to do it is scarce and prohibitively expensive. Selling and shopping for that food could rekindle the relationship between city dwellers and those who work the land, but the supermarket has become an unthinking way of life. Cooking and eating food are two of the few remaining ways in which urbanites can be hospitable, trusting and generous. But Steel's vivid descriptions of ancient cookshops and taverns offer a far richer vision of city-dwellers bawdily conversing over shared fare than Wagamama's ubiquitous but uneasy shared benches can ever do. Minimising waste is surely essential (and creative!) if we are to optimise increasingly meagre global resources. But as Steel points out, we currently throw away a shocking 30% of the food we buy. The massive reversals required in existing supply chains, educational priorities and even basic social interactions in the city are horribly daunting. One cannot but feel that a pan-national crisis will be the only possible trigger for a new, sustainable food market.
Steel's concluding chapter tenders myriad ideas, both utopian and pragmatic, about bottom up behavioural change and top down political leadership on food that might seek to avert such a crisis. Whilst her book is certainly a campaigning one, it is also realistic and discursive and not given to promulgating slick solutions to complex agricultural and societal problems. Potential readers will know that there are already a host of excellent polemics about contemporary food culture (Shopped, Fast Food Nation et al) and an equal canon about cities. What Carolyn Steel's book achieves is to bring these two axiomatic subjects together for the first time with a hugely enjoyable melee of academic care, passion and a jocular, accessible style. You feel like you would like to have her round for dinner to discuss further. And she would probably accept...
Timely and pertinent
As I type there are reports of food shortages around the country. There are also reports of cannabilism occurring in Essex.
OK I made that last bit up but this book serves as a reminder to those of us who live in cities as to where our food comes from and where it all goes. It also serves as a very interesting book on how cities of the past were fed and reminds us that in fact cities are a relatively recent development in human history and that they could only exist with the explicit development of agricultural methods and markets. I am off to read "The end of food" now which may have more to say about food shortages elsewhere in the world, but to be fair the author here makes it clear that her intention is to describe how cities have been and continue to be fed.
To sum up a very interesting and surprisingly readable book given the subject matter.



